Lorna, Mike & myself!
So after a total fiasco of getting all of Lornas stuff on the
plane Mike and I made it to the gate with plenty of time to spare. We waited for a little
while before boarding. Once on the plane and off the ground we started partaking in the
complimentary beverage service. After about 6 or 7 drinks our flight landed, we made it
through customs and found Lorna and Diego (Lornas brother) waiting for us. Then it
was off to the Toruma Hostel where we were sleeping that night. We dropped off our stuff
and headed for the bars and discos for a night of continued drinking and dancing.
We stayed out till about 1:30 before Lorna and Diego decided it might be a good time to
call it a night since they had a 20 or 30 minute drive to their house, and I guess we
needed our rest for the weekend adventure.
Friday morning we decided rather than go to Arenal (the big erupting
volcano which was the whole reason Tom and I were going in the first place) wed head
for the Caribbean and Id plan a future date to return to do the adventure lava tour.
Lorna shows up around 9:00 and we grab a cab to get to the airport Budget Rental where we
rented Suzi the Sidekick (Suzuki Sidekick) our trusty stead for the weekend. Next it was
off to Cartago (where Lorna lives) to pick up her friend Marcella. Driving in Costa Rica
is crazy but a blast at the same time. Basically if you drive like a complete idiot
without hitting anything, your considered a good driver. Driving in heavy San Jose traffic
is tough at first but I quickly get the hang of it and am often confused with the
Ticos (Spanish for Costa Rican) for my crazy driving maneuvers.
Once we get the four of us in the car we start heading up to the volcano Irazu, which
is an active volcano but just not currently erupting. On the way up we stop to eat at a
local restaurant on the side of the road which was just incredible. I ordered the Lengua
which was incredible, I received a HUGE plate and it was probably the best Ive ever
had Mike ordered the Casado which looked great and received high praise and the ladies had
this awesome cheese tortilla which I had quite a bit of. After completely stuffing
ourselves we continued our journey up the mountain dodging horses and cows most of the way
up. Once at the top we hiked up to the crater and saw the dormant side along with the
active crater which currently had a lake in it. It was beautiful up there, we hiked all
around the craters before heading back to the car and heading to a scenic overlook even
farther up (were already well above the clouds). From this spot on a clear day you
can actually see both the Pacific and the Caribbean
all we see are the tops of
clouds.
We then head down the mountain and end up in a valley called Orosi
where we stop at this church which was built in the 1600s because the Virgin Mary
appeared on a rock in this location. The Rock is in the basement of the building where you
can still go down and see it. We went to the basement got pictures with the rock found
this underground stream with holly water, splashed some on for good luck and then decided
why head to the beach tonight when there was so much to see around Cartago. So we call
Diego to let him know well go to the beach in the morning and head for a drive. We
see so many wonderful places
Waterfalls, Gardens, Ruins, vegetation etc
Marcella and Lorna teach us Spanish as we go (well see if I remember it). We stop at
the Casa del sonador (The Dreamers House) where these woodworkers were who basically carve
statutes etc out of driftwood. This house was incredible, everything it it was hand carved
and you could walk through and check out all the sculptures, doors etc. I bought this root
which had this old mans head carved out of it.
As the sun set we started to get hungry (at least I did, of course)
so we headed to another restaurant in Cartago called La Chicharronera where we ordered 6
appetizers which were incredible
Marcella is going to have to send me the names for
them but my favorite was Ceviche (raw fish in a lemon juice marinade) YUM!!!. Mike and I
then headed to a little bed and breakfast (Hotel Los Angeles) so we could get ready for
the nights activities, Lorna Marcella, Mike and I were heading out to see a live band
(Matif, I think). On the way back to the hotel, the girls had us pick up 4 small bottles
of Cacique Guarro so they could take them in the club so we could mix our own drinks and
save money. I love Ticas (Costa Rican Women) not only are they beautiful they come
up with ideas like this. Once in the room, showering was an electrifying experience,
basically Costa Rica doesnt have running hot water. Instead they run their cold
water into a electric (YES I said Electric) powered heating system. So basically you have
a water pipe with a electrical wire taped to it running into the shower head which is a
large electric motor. In the case of the first room there is quite a bit of bare wires
involved. Since I was the first to shower I was very curious why Mike kept yelling at me
to see if I was OK. I later learned while he was in the shower that not only when you
flicked the motor from Warm to cold or hot would, it spark and pop in the shower. It would
also dim the lights quite a bit making the person in the room think you may have just
electrocuted yourself.
Marcella and Lorna arrive and its off to the club for a night of full on craziness. The band was a lot of fun and everyone in the place was standing on the bar, chairs or tables dancing. I even gave the Ticos a rare glimpse of the "Drunken Gringo Dance" which caught all the clubs attention. Since we knew we had an early day the next day we headed for the casa and was in bed around 2 after taking the ladies home.
Saturday we woke up early, went to get Lorna and then headed for San Jose to get Diego and his girlfriend (Oliva) and it was off to Puerto Villa. The drive was beautiful up mountain roads through rainforests, while driving I felt I was in an autocross trying to pass trucks on these small mountain roads. With only one near head on collision even the Ticos were hailing my driving skills. We arrived in Limon for lunch, nothing special as far as lunch was concerned, we did stop at a food vendor on the street and had a Pati which was a Jamaican meat pastry YUM!!!! After lunch and a short walk around Limon we piled back in the Sidekick and it was off to Puerto Villa. We had an hour or so drive in front of us on the worst potholed filled road you could imagine. It was so bumpy that it claimed my camera which was in the glove box, after that drive my camera would re wind the film after 5 pictures were taken on the roll. The road ran right along side the Caribbean so it was a beautiful drive but I couldnt take my eyes off the road too much without hitting another pothole. Along the way we get stopped at a checkpoint where a guy in US army fatigues comes out to the car starts pointing and speaking Spanish basically telling Mike to open the glove box, which we do and then tells us to go. Apparently most locals leave their dope in the glove box, and as long as you dont leave it there youll be ok.
Once we made it to Puerto Viejo we went straight through town to a beach (Punta uva) at the very end of this long gravel road. It was great, pretty deserted set in this large cove with blue water.
After spending a few hours on the beach and hiking the terrain nearby we headed off to
find a room. Our home for the night was the Hotel Puerto Viejo,
whiich was
more a hostel than hotel but it was nice (But whos complaining for $5 a night). The
hotel is popular with the back packers and locals but it wasnt too crowded this time
so Mike, Lorna and I got a single room with two sets of bunk beds and one single. Campers
can set up their tents for a $1 each inside the courtyard so you get to meet a lot of
different people. Once were settled in our room we all shower and prepare for an
evening out. First we mixed us up a couple of Guarros and Fanta, then headed out on the
town looking for our dinner destination. We chose a little restaurant right on the main
strip and got the highly recommended rice and beans (which on the Caribbean side are made
with coconut) again
YUM. I was still hungry (imagine that) so I had to order a few
of those Petae (sp?). After dinner we figured it was still early and we were full, tired
and somewhat drunk from the Guarro, so we decided to take an hour long nap before our
night of craziness in the local discos. I woke around 9:30 and got everyone up and
motivated and then it was off to Johnies. It was pretty slow so we went and checked out
another place which was little better. Since all the Guarro was gone and I somehow had
misplaced my rum I bought in Limon we went looking for a liquor store but it was closed.
So it was back to Jonies for a night of beer drinking and dancing, and if the locals were
real lucky
they might get an opportunity to get a glimpse of the rare patented
stupid-drunken-gringo dance with a slight Rasta twist. We danced there till 2:00AM or so
(whenever it closed) met so many people from all over the world and then went across the
bridge to the other bar looking for this girls (Cathy from Victoria) friend. Once there we
realized it was kind of lame so we headed back towards our room. As we approached our room
I heard noise coming from a few rooms down so I went to investigate. This is where I met
the nicest group of people, a guy from Israel, a girl from India by way of Canada (who was
beautiful by the way), a local Indian and a few others (I feel terrible for not
remembering any of their names). I stayed up talking with many of these people till 5 in
the morning till I finally headed for my room from pure exhaustion.
The next morning I was up roaming around about 9:00, this is where I
met and had a long talk with Andy from Canada. She had been in Central America for a month
or two and was leaving for a few days to go to Nicaragua for a month and then to Guatemala
until the money ran out. I then went and got everyone up and packed up the car so we could
head to Cahuita for a little hiking and spend some more time on the beach. After lunch we
made the short drive to the Cahuita where we went hiking down a fairly easy trail through
some woods, this is where we ran into Jenny and Yael who I had met the night before at the
Disco. We talked for a second and we continued on our original directions. Once at the end
of the trail we hung out on the beach and saw a monkey before heading back up the beach
instead of following the trail back. After a while of walking along the beach Lorna
decided to cut across the jungle to find the trail which was a possible mistake since it
was pretty dense. We eventually found the trail and headed back to the main beach without
any problems (Its been a week now Im sure the Malaria would have happened).
Once on the beach we found Deigo and Oliva who were not too far away from Jenny and Yael
who called me over to where they are. Now Jenny is from San Francisco and Yael is from
Switzerland and they met a few weeks prior to this and decided to travel together. Yael
only knew me as Texas from the night before and her main question was if we had a Sheriff
in my town, which turned into them both attacking me since Texas believes in capital
punishment. You see Yael was very much opposed to it and didnt seem to like my
un-opinionated attitude about it, especially my belief that me nor probably anyone I know
will be affected by it so why worry. But even so she turned out to be very interesting not
to mention beautiful, kind of made me mad that we decided to leave and not stay another
night
But we have rainforest to see so we headed back towards the car to round
everyone up. Mike and I decided to grab another bite to eat before starting our journey
back, we chose this womans backyard restaurant for our dinner. I ordered the rice
with chicken and it was really good, and you know
it even surprised me that I
wasnt bothered eating chicken while live chickens walked around the yard and our
table.
After our meal we headed for the car, Mike was going to drive but I think Lorna scared him talking about how dangerous it was driving this road after nightfall. She wasnt kidding, imagine a narrow mountain type road, up to 120 Khp and every once in a while youd find people walking across it or kids playing on the side. As if that wasnt enough at the top of the mountain it gets foggy!!!! At first I felt I was going pretty fast but I was hanging with a few cars so I figured all the slow cars were gringos that didnt understand how us Ticos drive. It was the next day that Lorna told me that we made it back in about an hour less time than they normally did and she just had to make herself go to sleep because I was making her nervous (Yipes!!!). I scolded her and told her I wished she would have told me that, and I would have slowed down (Maybe!!!). Once we dropped everyone off we headed for our hotel in Cartago, because of a mix up Mike and I got our own rooms right next to each other. After cleaning up I settled down in my bed to rest and wait for Mike, it wasnt long before I could hear him yelling through my bathroom wall. Apparently he had locked himself in his bathroom and the doorknob broke to where he couldnt get out. Since it was a bed and breakfast there wasnt anyone there with a key and his room was locked. Apparently my cries of laughter and rolling on the floor unable to stand must have helped since he had soon freed himself from the evil clutches of the bathroom. Once we were all clean we headed out on the town, now Cartago at least where we were is pretty quite especially on a Sunday night. We did manage to find a local bar where we ordered (with the help of one English speaking patron) some food, I got the Casado co Pollo which was quite tasty. Well eventually the big group with the English speaking patron (along with him) left but left behind one NON English speaking patron who wanted to join us. Did I mention he was drunk???? Well Raul joined us and throughout the evening which was only about 45 minutes we tried to communicate with him in the most frustrating 45 minutes of my life. At one point we figured out he did something with computers, then we figured he did something with a big Tennis tournament in town before we finally realized he worked with NASA. Mike and I agreed he worked with NASA at some level till the English speaking guy came back and apparently after talking with Raul they all thought we worked for NASA. It was about this point I went into total shutdown mode and left and went to bed.
Our final day we slept in had breakfast (yum toast), and headed to pick up Lorna and her friend Ronald. Then it was off to the Tapanti Rainforest for a day of hiking. Once we got to the gate Ronald told us to be quite and did all the talking, basically they thought we were Ticos and let us in for the cheaper price. Once up the mountain we checked out a scenic overlook, which was beautiful but not much of a hike. We the headed for our first trail which turned out to 400meters and pretty lame, UNTIL it ended at the river and you know me thats where the real trail starts. First we tried to cross the river, but the current that didnt look too strong actually was, so we then headed up the river bank climbing large boulders and having a blast. Since we had one other trail Lorna wanted us to see we headed back to the car and went and found the final trailhead. This trail was incredible, very rough, right in the middle of the rainforest straight up a mountain, very dense just plain fun. It took us about an hour to complete this trail of 2K. We then did a short 1200 meter hike back to a swimming hole in the river, but the water was way too cold to swim so we headed off to eat.
We stopped at this real nice restaurant called La Casona del Cafetal which was right next to this huge lake where I had this incredible sea bass with this fruit sauce (Major YUM).
After lunch we headed to the local supermarket for all my Costa Rican wares (Guarro,
Spices, Cigarettes, sugar cane tea, the only thing I forgot was my cookbook). We saw the
most beautiful women at the supermarket, Mike and I almost opted to stay there but we
headed over to Ronalds brothers bar for a few more beers before dinner. This is
where we lost Lorna since she had to go home and cook, Mike and I hung out with Ronald for
a few hours and we all seemed to get along really well. At 7 we took Ronald home and
headed to Lornas where we cleaned up as best as possible for dinner (we were pretty
messy after the days events). Dinner with Lornas family was perfect, the food was
wonderful and we had many very interesting conversations from fashion to politics.
After a few hours of eating, drinking (Lornas dad pours a mean Guarro) and
conversation we headed off to get Ronald for a night of dancing. Once in San Jose we
couldnt find the disco so Ronald had me stop where he asked a passing cop. Next
thing you know the cop is taking off and Ronald is telling me to follow him. Basically
were chasing after this cop whos giving us a police escort to the disco. After
2 or 3 hours of dancing in the Disco we feel its time so we drive Ronald and Lorna
back to Cartago and head for our Hostel where we call it a night.
The next day we wake early have a long talk with some people who are just
getting to Costa Rica and will be there for a month before Mike and I load up
and head to the airport. The plane ride is fairly uneventful and we make it back
to Dallas safe and sound wishing to be back in Costa Rica very soon, maybe
April?!!?